Jigs - Riding Low

To go along with Boiling Springs last Brew n Bugs, Im going to do a some talking about different jig flies. It is quite simple really, when it comes to jigs its really just an upside down fly. Nothing changes except you have a small bed in the shank with a slotted bead.

Most of my jigs are fairly simple flies, that don't have a lot of detail, but hold a nice natural profile in the water. This simplicity really helps simplify the fly design and stops many frustrated moments at the vice. I have tied jig style Prince Nymphs to large jig style Stoneflies, all have their own challenges. However if you stay way from flies that require a lot of detail on the bottom of the fly or in this case the top, it will lead to a much more enjoyable tying experience.



Most of my jig flies are Pheasant tails tied "in the round", Hare's Ears without a shellback, Quill Bodies with just dubbing and a little flash for the legs. You can add shellbacks to jig on the larger flies, but its a headache and unnecessary for the smaller ones. I tie a small winter black stone nymph on both a standard nymph hook and a jig style, the only difference is no shell back, this is because dealing with a hook point in your way vs. a wide open shank makes a huge difference, and you won't have to worry about stabbing yourself every 2 seconds with the hook.

Another key to success with jig flies is to secure the bead from flopping around while you are starting to tie. One way I have found to keep the bead in place and stop it from spinning around is adding a few lead wraps behind the bead and pushing it tight to the bead. The other way is to make a small thread dam behind it. I do this often times when I'm trying to make a smaller, lighter jig. I will use this dam to also the start of my body taper for the fly.

Jigs are used as anchor flies most of the time. This is also why I try to keep it simple, for restocking purposes. I have found that if you start with a larger jig hook (8-12) with the style flies you are trying to tie, this will help you get proportions right before you start into the smaller sizes (14-18). I often times will tie one style of fly in 3 to 4 sizes, always starting with the larger ones first, again to help with proportions but also help with your tying movements around the hook point and tying inverted.

These are 3 tips that have made tying jig flies fun for me with the least amount of frustration. Hope this helps.

Over the next moth I will be posting more on jigs to give everyone some ideas on simple ones to tie. Maybe even a tutorial or video.

Featured Fly - Double Squirrel Jig

This pattern is almost identical to the last fly I put up the only difference, its tied on a jig hook. I have had great success with the little double squirrel, so I decided to make it an anchor fly as well. We are getting into the winter months so getting as low as you can and staying in front of the fish longer, will make you more successful. Have fun.

Materials:

Hook: Orvis Tactical Jig - 10-14

Thread: Ultra Thread - Fl Orange 170

Bead: Tungsten Slotted Bead - Black - Match 

Tail: CDL Dark - 12-15 fibers 

Rib: Mirage Tinsel - Med - Opal 

Body: SLF Squirrel - Nat. Fox 

Thorax: SLF Squirrel - Dark Brown

Collar: Ultra Thread - Fl Orange 170

Step 1: Make your thread base while tying in the ribbing.

Step 2: Tie in your CDL Fibers. 

Step 3: Make a small Hot Spot out of your thread.

Step 4: Start your dubbing body right in-front of your hot spot. 

Step 5: Making tight wraps, dub the body.Tight wraps will help push the guard hairs out. 

Step 6: Taking the ribbing under the tail and back over the top, make your rib.

Step 7: Dub the thorax. 

Step 8: Make your Hot Collar and whip finish. 

Step 9: Final Step, take a dubbing brush to it, making it as buggy as you would like. 

Finished: Double Squirrel Nymph tied on Orvis Tactical Jig Hook

Finished Fly Pattern